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July 01, 2004
French Laundry
French Laundry seems to be in the new a lot lately. It's being touted as the "Best Restaurant in the World" from one magazine in England. Food writers are falling over themselves pouring praises on Thomas Keller, the celebrity chef who made it all happen.
I have been to FL thrice now, and I don't think I'll repeat that experience. The very first time we went our friend (who's also a chef who knows Mr. Keller professionally) made the reservation for us. That was one of those meals that a person will always remember until the day he dies. We got extra courses, extra wine (free of charge), extra nice service, and a sign cookbook at the end of the meal (free of charge of course). Free stuff aside, the food is great. There are many courses of his signature "essence of vegetable" style of dishes- usually a veggie of some kind (say cucumber), beaten to a mushy texture, but then strained like 20 times to get rid of all traces of fiber. It's also reduced so that it's VERY thick. So in effect you are tasting the essence of cucumber without things like fiber and water to get in your way. We finished our lunch in about 5 hours and that's a lunch I'll never forget.
Things kinda went downhill from there. The next outing was with a large group, so there are 10 of us all crammed into the small private room at the top. It was too crowded to really enjoy fine dining as such. The third outing was downright disappointing. We had our chef friend make the reservation again, but service was indifferent, and the quality of the food seems to have suffered as well (although still great).
Now that T. Keller has opened a $16 Million restaurant in NYC (he even gets veto power from his landlord on who can be his neighbor), and with a third eatery opening in Vegas, I can't help but to think that he's gonna spread himself too thin, and quality is going to suffer as a result.
Posted by msoong at July 1, 2004 05:01 PM
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