August 28, 2005
Eating our way through France
A trip to France (or more specifically, Paris) is always a foodie's delight. There's the endless research through the Michelin Red Book, there's the exercise of trying to get a reservation. Plus the money saving so we can afford these darlings of the culinary world. All that build up of anticipation further enhances the experience when the food actually hit the palate (or on one occasion major disappointment at Lucas Carton, I'll leave that to another entry).
This time we did none of that. Instead we are just going to hang out with our host, and just eat at unassuming places through the countryside.
Boy aren't glad we did it this way!
Food in the French countryside is incredibly cheap, and incredibly good quality for the price you pay. We ate through Perigord (home of Foi gras & duck comfit) just walking into restaurants that piqued our fancy. Getting a table is never a problem, and the service is always good (no rude waiter stereotype here). One about service though: A typical French lunch runs at least one and a half hour, and dinner is a three hour affair. If you are used to dining Californian speed it might be a problem, but once you let go and just flow with it, you quickly get used to the pace of life there.
Quality of produce: American farm produce are optimized for shelf life, so that a tomato can stay red and pretty for days (weeks?) on end. In France they go bad in about two days after you buy them, but they TASTE good. They have more intense flavors (and I am talking about run of the mill produce, not "organic", called "Biologique" there). Everything from fruit, veggie, and meat all fall into the same pattern. Plus they are cheaper.
Gourmet goods: I am talking about artizan cheese, sausages (Saucisson), foi gra, duck comfit, etc. In the US these are special treats that's only available at expensive restaurants. Here in the French country side (especially in Perigord), these are almost everyday food with everyday prices. Other fav include duck gizzard, rabbit kidney, and eel. All good stuff.
Downside: Linda and I both fantasised about retiring in Perigord, but there are downside. Half way throught he trip Linda had a craving for spicy food (i.e. Indian or Thai), and of course in French countryside there ain't no such thing. We hit a Thai restaurant in Paris (in the touristy Latin quarter), and it must be the vilest Thai food I have ever had. I think staying in the Bay Area has its merits...
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July 01, 2004
French Laundry
French Laundry seems to be in the new a lot lately. It's being touted as the "Best Restaurant in the World" from one magazine in England. Food writers are falling over themselves pouring praises on Thomas Keller, the celebrity chef who made it all happen.
I have been to FL thrice now, and I don't think I'll repeat that experience. The very first time we went our friend (who's also a chef who knows Mr. Keller professionally) made the reservation for us. That was one of those meals that a person will always remember until the day he dies. We got extra courses, extra wine (free of charge), extra nice service, and a sign cookbook at the end of the meal (free of charge of course). Free stuff aside, the food is great. There are many courses of his signature "essence of vegetable" style of dishes- usually a veggie of some kind (say cucumber), beaten to a mushy texture, but then strained like 20 times to get rid of all traces of fiber. It's also reduced so that it's VERY thick. So in effect you are tasting the essence of cucumber without things like fiber and water to get in your way. We finished our lunch in about 5 hours and that's a lunch I'll never forget.
Things kinda went downhill from there. The next outing was with a large group, so there are 10 of us all crammed into the small private room at the top. It was too crowded to really enjoy fine dining as such. The third outing was downright disappointing. We had our chef friend make the reservation again, but service was indifferent, and the quality of the food seems to have suffered as well (although still great).
Now that T. Keller has opened a $16 Million restaurant in NYC (he even gets veto power from his landlord on who can be his neighbor), and with a third eatery opening in Vegas, I can't help but to think that he's gonna spread himself too thin, and quality is going to suffer as a result.
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